What exactly failed?
Ask which component was tested and what the result was. "It is old" is not a diagnosis, and it should not be the basis of a replacement quote.
The short answer: if the tank itself is leaking, replace it. If the tank is sound and one component has failed, repair it. Everything in between depends on age, sediment and parts, so ask the independent plumber to walk you through it before anything is ordered.
| What the inspection finds | Repair may suit | Replacement may suit |
|---|---|---|
| The tank itself | Sound, with water coming from a fitting or valve | Water weeping through the shell of the tank |
| Age of the unit | Comfortably within its expected service life | At or past the age the manufacturer expects |
| Sediment and scale | Light buildup that flushing can improve | Heavy hardened sediment and a long recovery time |
| What failed | One identified part: element, thermostat, valve or sensor | Several failures, or a fault that keeps returning |
| Parts availability | Components for the model are still readily available | The model is discontinued and parts are hard to source |
| Household demand | The unit still meets what the house actually needs | The house has outgrown it, or the layout has changed |
A repair makes sense when the tank is intact and the failure is identifiable. A thermocouple or gas control on a gas unit, an element or thermostat on an electric one, or a scaled heat exchanger on a tankless unit are all component-level problems on a heater that is otherwise doing its job.
It also makes sense when the unit is still young. In a house built in the last few years the heater may even be inside a manufacturer or builder warranty period, so check that paperwork before agreeing to anything. See what a service visit covers on our water heater repair page, and if you have not called yet, our guide on what to check when there is no hot water covers the safe basics.
A tank leaking through its shell cannot be repaired, whatever else is fitted to it. That is the clearest case. The less obvious one is a heater that is old, heavily scaled and slow to recover, where each repair buys a shorter period than the last.
Hard North Texas water is the reason this comes up so often around McKinney. Minerals settle into a crust on the tank floor that insulates the burner from the water, which is what the rumbling noise is. A heater that has been making that sound for years has usually lost efficiency and tank life along the way.
If replacement is the answer, the quote should cover the unit, the connections, the relief valve and discharge line, the drain pan, any expansion control and the disposal of the old one. Ask specifically about an attic installation, because the pan and drain matter far more up there. A leak that turns out not to be the heater belongs with leak detection or burst pipe repair instead.
Ask which component was tested and what the result was. "It is old" is not a diagnosis, and it should not be the basis of a replacement quote.
Ask where any water is coming from, how much sediment is in the tank and what shape the anode rod is in. That is what separates a repair from a replacement.
Ask what is included beyond the unit itself: valves, pan, venting, connections and removal of the old heater, and whether anything needs a second visit.
Call and describe the problem to be connected with an independent plumber.